29~31. Discovering Santiago de Compostela (Portomarin, Palas de rei)

Reflecting on a Journey of Transformation and Discovery

I’ve been in Europe for 30 days now, and suddenly, I feel a new emotion. I’ve always dreamed of this, and perhaps this is a place I may never be able to return to. It feels unreal to think I’ve been here for about a month.

 

I’ve experienced nights where I couldn’t sleep well because of overwhelming happiness while walking picturesque paths and meeting many people. I’m fully enjoying this route and the relaxation with my whole body. It reminds me of t he beauty of traveling.

 

Today, I broke the 700km mark. I can’t believe I’ve walked around 700km on foot, and now there’s less than 100km left. This is a truly memorable day in my life. To celebrate this precious journey, I treated myself to a luxurious hostel, not an albergue, and indulged in good food. The magnificent view from the river added to the celebration.

Once again, I realize the most beautiful thing is nature. What is this feeling of happiness while doing nothing but staying by the river? There seem to be many types of happiness. I’ll reduce my food intake and be careful to finish this journey well.

 

- Portomarin -

 

As the end of this pilgrimage looms, the number of pilgrims has increased dramatically because they can get a certificate of completion for the 100km Pilgrimage Course. Because of this, finding accommodation has become challenging. An unavoidable sense of competition emerges, reminiscent of the darker side of Korea. Involuntarily joining the competition to survive isn’t ideal. Since then, I’ve felt no relaxation.

So, I decided that if I can’t avoid this situation, I’ll just enjoy even the competition. I embraced the feeling of outpacing others, greeting fellow pilgrims cheerfully, and strengthening my legs. I accepted the competition.

If I can’t change Korean society, I’ll just enjoy it. Let’s enjoy overcoming a society centered on school ties and blood ties step by step. I’m like a frog that has escaped from a deep well to see a bigger world. It’s time to spread my wings after shedding the frog’s shell. I can do it. Don’t treat people with disrespect. Be mindful of my primate nature and harness it well. If you walk with two people, they can be your teachers. I need the humility to learn more.

 

This lesson, which Mr. Kwan experienced during his eight years of studying abroad, will guide me.

I’ll think about these words over and over again and make them my life motto:

“A new route will appear after breaking your shell completely, throwing it all away, and enduring for a long time to work it out. There’s no more of the old me.”

Let’s engrave this in my heart.

 

- Palas de rei -

 

 

For your information,

Portomarín is a picturesque town located in the province of Lugo in the autonomous community of Galicia, Spain. It is a significant stop on the Camino de Santiago, specifically on the French Way, and is known for its unique history and beautiful architecture.

Historical Background

In the 1960s, the construction of the Belesar Reservoir led to the submersion of the original village of Portomarín. To preserve its historical heritage, the town's most important buildings were meticulously moved to higher ground, brick by brick. This included notable structures such as the Church of San Juan, also known as the Church of San Nicolás, which dates back to the 12th century. The stones of these buildings were numbered to ensure accurate reconstruction in the new location.

Main Attractions

1. Church of San Juan: This fortress-like Romanesque church is a key landmark. It was originally designed to protect pilgrims and now stands as a testament to the town’s rich history.

2. Medieval Bridge: The well-preserved medieval bridge over the Miño River is another highlight, adding to the town’s charm.

3. Stairwell and Capela das Neves: A remarkable stairway built with stones from the old village leads up to the chapel, offering stunning views of the river and reservoir.

Cultural Aspects

Portomarín is also known for its local festivals and gastronomy:

• Festa da Augardente: Celebrated on Easter Sunday, this festival showcases the town’s renowned liquor.
• Town Festivities: Held during the first weekend of September, these festivities bring vibrant music and celebrations to the town.
• Folkloric Sundays: In the summer, local cultural groups perform traditional music and dances every Sunday.

Modern Portomarín

Today, Portomarín remains a vibrant spot for pilgrims and tourists alike, offering a blend of historical intrigue and natural beauty. The remains of the old village can sometimes be seen when the water levels of the reservoir recede, providing a unique glimpse into the past.

Whether you’re passing through on a pilgrimage or visiting to explore its historical and natural sites, Portomarín offers a rich and memorable experience.

 

Historical Significance

Palas de Rei, located in the province of Lugo in the autonomous community of Galicia, Spain, is a town steeped in history and closely linked to the Camino de Santiago. The town's name is believed to originate from "Pallatium regis" (royal palace) as it was the residence of the Visigothic king Witiza in the early 8th century. The Codex Calixtinus, an important medieval guide for pilgrims, notes Palas de Rei as an obligatory stop on the pilgrimage route, emphasizing its historical importance during the medieval boom of pilgrimages.

Main Attractions

1. Castle of Pambre: Built in the 14th century by Gonzalo Ozores de Ulloa, this castle is one of the best-preserved examples of medieval military architecture in Galicia. It withstood various historical conflicts and remains a significant landmark.

2. Church of Vilar de Donas: This Romanesque church is renowned for its well-preserved murals and its historical significance as a center of the Knights of the Order of Santiago. It has been declared a historical-artistic monument.

3. Church of San Tirso: Featuring a Romanesque portal decorated with scallop shells, this church is part of the rich religious heritage of the area.

4. Pazo de Ulloa: This manor house, associated with the Galician nobility, is believed to be the setting for Emilia Pardo Bazán’s novel "Los Pazos de Ulloa".

Cultural and Gastronomic Highlights

Palas de Rei is famous for its traditional Galician products, especially the Arzúa-Ulloa cheese, which is celebrated annually at the Fiesta del Queso de Arzúa. Other local delicacies include octopus and trout from nearby rivers, often accompanied by local wines and brandy. Several restaurants in the town, such as Pulperia Nosa Terra and A Parada Das Bestas, offer these specialties, providing both budget-friendly and more upscale dining options.

Festivals and Events

The town hosts various festivals, the most notable being:

• Gran Festa da Xuventude do Camiño: Celebrated at the beginning of summer with dinners, concerts, and activities centered around the Camino de Santiago.
• Fiesta del Queso de Arzúa: Held in early March, this festival celebrates the region’s famous cheese.

Modern Amenities and Accessibility

Palas de Rei is well-equipped to accommodate the influx of pilgrims with numerous hostels, guesthouses, and rural tourism accommodations. For transportation, the town is accessible via the N-547 road, linking Santiago and Lugo, and has bus connections to major cities like Santiago de Compostela.

Palas de Rei combines historical depth with cultural richness, making it a significant and memorable stop on the Camino de Santiago.